Concocté par Valentin
This month, the Compagnie du Rognon headed to rue Tupin, in Lyon’s Cordeliers district, to explore another legendary bouchon. Café du Jura is one of those restaurants where time slows down — and pleasure only picks up. Sure, it earns its stars for the food, but it also wins our hearts thanks to its cheeky, thoughtful team.
Café du Jura, a Lyonnais Institution
While Café du Jura has been around since 1867, it was Brigitte Josserand who took it over in 1974, serving up hearty, no-nonsense Lyonnais fare for lunch and dinner. Although she officially retired last year, La Mère Josserand still keeps a foot in the dining room and a hand in the kitchen.
She can also count on her son, Benoît Josserand, who runs the floor with a master’s touch. The Café du Jura is part of the prestigious, tightly-knit circle of bouchons certified by the Association des Bouchons Lyonnais.
A Distinct Atmosphere, in a Place Out of Time
Step inside Café du Jura and you’re stepping into a gloriously bygone world. Its decor is a throwback to French cafés of the late 1800s and 1930s, full of wood paneling, burnished copper, and grandmother-style furniture — complete with authentic vintage Frigidaires.
But what surprises most is the restaurant’s apparent seriousness. Much like Café Comptoir Abel, Café du Jura seems to shy away from the loud, jolly showmanship often expected in bouchons. Instead, it opts for a more understated, almost solemn style. And yet — what a mistake it would be to stop at first impressions!
Brigitte and Benoît Josserand are masters of deadpan, their poker faces only enhancing the warmth they subtly radiate. Rather than adopting the modern mantra of “the customer is king,” they believe in mutual respect and sincere conversation. So skip the online reviews — go ahead and tell them what you thought in person!
Starters with a Lyonnais Soul
The menu reflects the people who serve it: serious on the surface, but full of surprises for those who look closer. On the starter side: boards of dry-cured sausages, a salad topped with soft-boiled egg and sweet pickled herring, or a veal trotter salad. A special mention goes to the traditional frisée lyonnaise — and its high-caliber lardons.
Also not to be missed: their œufs meurette, in which the whites are almost lacquered by red wine, and the yolk, silky and unctuous, wraps itself around the sweet, jammy pearl onions. As for the day’s starter — it was a love letter to the region: melting ravioles stuffed with snails, cloaked in a rich and balanced garlic sauce.
The Josserand Family Mains
Now it’s time to shift gears. The main courses are a who’s who of Lyonnais classics: tripe, tablier de sapeur, andouillette with veal chitterlings, hanger steak, pike quenelle — the works.
The Compagnie du Rognon zeroed in on two of the day’s specials. On one side: ris de veau with morels. On the other: a 1 kg côte de bœuf. The finesse of the first seemed to mirror the boldness of the second — and we ended up sharing both of these standout dishes, bound together by a helping of buttery parsley potatoes.
Cheese, Sweet Endings, and a Proper Digestif
After a well-earned cheese break featuring a selection of goat cheeses, we moved on to dessert: gâteau lyonnais, chocolate mousse, and baba au rum. The promises may be classic — but the execution? Flawless.
To recover from such a feast, the Compagnie wrapped up the evening with a few well-chosen digestifs — and a warm chat with our gracious hosts.
About Café du Jura – A True Bouchon Lyonnais
What’s the exact address of this restaurant in Lyon ?
25 rue Tupin, in the Cordeliers district of Lyon’s 2nd arrondissement.
Is Café du Jura a café, a restaurant, or a hotel ?
Above all, Café du Jura is a restaurant. That said, it retains the spirit of a traditional French café, with a central counter dominating the main dining room. The establishment is not a hotel. For more details, visit the Café du Jura website.
What are the opening hours of Café du Jura – Bouchon Lyonnais ?
Café du Jura serves both lunch and dinner. Here are the opening hours:
Tuesday to Friday:
12:00 PM – 3:00 PM and 7:45 PM – 9:30 PM
Saturday:
9:00 AM – 1:45 PM and 7:45 PM – 9:30 PM
Please note: the restaurant offers a single service, and the closing times reflect the latest order times, not when guests are expected to leave.
Where can I find the restaurant's menu ?
For full details about the food offering, check the Café du Jura website. Note that this bouchon does not offer fixed menus. However, you can explore the selection of dishes suggested by Mère Brigitte Josserand.
What is a “bouchon” in Lyon ?
In Lyon, a bouchon is a type of restaurant that proudly serves traditional Lyonnais cuisine. Expect pork specialties, Beaujolais wine, and beloved classic French desserts — a true celebration of local gastronomy.
What is the “Les Bouchons Lyonnais” label ?
Founded in 2012, the Les Bouchons Lyonnais association is dedicated to preserving authentic Lyonnais culinary heritage. The label certifies restaurants that stay true to this tradition — a sign for diners seeking a genuine taste of Lyon and France’s “art of good eating.”
Is it recommended to book a table ?
Absolutely. Like all well-regarded establishments, it’s a smart move to book in advance, for both lunch and dinner. It would be a shame to miss out on this legendary spot in the Cordeliers district.
Which other bouchons in Lyon has the Compagnie du Rognon reviewed ?
Here are the other bouchons we’ve visited and reviewed:
- Café Comptoir Abel
- Le Poêlon d’Or
- Daniel et Denise Créqui
- Les Culottes Longues
- Bouchon Les Lyonnais
- Le Garet
- Le Café du Peintre – Chez Périer
- Bouchon Comptoir Brunet
- La Meunière (Lyon)
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