Bouchons of the Month
Le Comptoir de Léa:
a plain Lyonnais bouchon that
enchants us
Concocté par Valentin
A few months ago, La Mère Léa had won us over with its contemporary and masterful reinterpretation of Lyonnais cuisine. This time, the Compagnie du Rognon drags its heels into the neighboring establishment: Le Comptoir de Léa, a more traditional bouchon that has nothing to envy its neighbor.
Le Comptoir de Léa, keystone of Lyonnais gastronomy
You recognize it at first glance — that famous archway on Rue des Templiers that opens onto Place Antonin Gourju. The same arch that La Mère Léa used to pass through with her wheeled cart, filled with goods she’d gleaned at the Quai Saint-Antoine market. The same arch that inspired the name of her establishment in 1943. There, she wrote a part of Lyonnais gastronomic history. (Photo credit: ina.fr)
Two rooms, two moods?
While La Mère Léa embraces a classy and distinguished ambiance, Le Comptoir de Léa leans more openly into the roguish heritage of the mères lyonnaises. Aside from a coat of paint, the place has remained true to itself: a 30-seat bistro-style dining room, notable for its wooden wall paneling and banquettes. Here and there, framed photos of Mère Léa keep watch.
A true keystone team
Once again, although Christian Têtedoie sets the direction, it’s Chef Lionel Sarre who steers the ship. To stay the course, he can rely on Maxime, his right-hand man, and Carole, his wife and front-of-house manager. As for the waitress who served us, she left her mark on the evening with her cheeky tone and tendency to speak her mind — without ever neglecting what matters most: sharp knowledge of the dishes and wines on the menu, and attentive, thoughtful service.Dazzling starters
Le Comptoir de Léa goes straight to the point. A single €37 menu, made up of a selection of bouchon lyonnais classics. The Lyonnaise salad and œuf en meurette set the tone: generous portions and rich sauces. Some go for the tablier de sapeur with its gribiche sauce, while others delight in the blood sausage with apples in phyllo, dressed with a cider vinaigrette.
Greatest Hits
Like the back cover of a cult record, Le Comptoir de Léa’s menu delivers a setlist of Lyonnais gastronomy’s greatest hits. Pure pork andouillette with mustard and house-made mashed potatoes; house-made pike quenelle with lobster sauce and pilaf rice; veal head with gribiche sauce and vegetables. And as a bonus track: chicken supreme with aged vinegar, tarragon-scented jus, and mashed potatoes.
3, 2, 1… Cheese!
Le Comptoir de Léa offers the same cheese selection as the creamery next door. And we won’t complain, because the Perrière Époisses is exceptional. Aged in marc de Bourgogne, this cheese earned Berthaut the title of Best Cheese in the World in 2023. A flurry of desserts was needed to recover from the emotion: an apple matefaim, a floating island with pink pralines, and a vanilla crème brûlée. Finally, the frozen Chartreuse parfait was the perfect excuse to skip an extra round of digestifs.
Frequently Asked Questions about Le Comptoir de Léa, bouchon lyonnais
What is Le Comptoir de Léa ?
Le Comptoir de Léa is a traditional bouchon lyonnais located in the heart of Lyon, at 11 Place Antonin Gourju. This authentic restaurant celebrates Lyon’s culinary heritage through generous portions, rich sauces, and a warm, convivial atmosphere. It’s an unmissable stop for anyone who loves traditional Lyonnaise cuisine and wants to enjoy a true French dining experience.
What are the opening hours of Le Comptoir de Léa ?
The restaurant is open Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 14:00 for lunch and 19:00 to 21:30 for dinner. Le Comptoir de Léa is closed on Sundays and Mondays. For updated hours or to check if the restaurant is open, you can always contact them by phone.
What is the menu and price range at Le Comptoir de Léa ?
The restaurant offers a single, traditional fixed-price menu at €37, featuring Lyon’s most beloved dishes. The menu includes specialties like salade lyonnaise, oeuf en meurette, tablier de sapeur, and quenelle de brochet with lobster sauce. You get excellent value for money, with generous plates and seasonal ingredients crafted in the spirit of Lyon’s gastronomic traditions.
What are the restaurant's culinary specialties ?
Le Comptoir de Léa is famous for its traditional specialties such as:
- Quenelles de brochet with lobster sauce
- Tablier de sapeur with gribiche sauce
- Andouillette with mustard
- Tête de veau
- Floating island with pink pralines
Each dish reflects the deep roots of bouchon cuisine and showcases the region’s love of hearty, flavorful meals.
Where is Le Comptoir de Léa located in Lyon ?
The restaurant is located at 11 Place Antonin Gourju, near Quai des Célestins and close to Bellecour and Vieux Lyon. It’s easily accessible whether you’re coming from Gare Saint-Paul or exploring the nearby Théâtre des Célestins. This address is steeped in history, just like the bouchon itself.
Who was Mère Léa ?
Mère Léa, or Léa Bidaut, is one of the most legendary figures of Lyon’s culinary scene. A true emblem of Lyonnaise gastronomy, she began her career with a food cart and eventually became a chef whose influence shaped what we now know as Lyonnaise cuisine. Her spirit lives on at Le Comptoir de Léa, where framed photos and the traditional menu pay tribute to her legacy.
How do I make a reservation at Le Comptoir de Léa ?
To reserve, we recommend calling the restaurant directly by phone or using their official website. Due to the restaurant’s popularity and limited seating, it’s best to make a reservation in advance, especially for Friday or Saturday night dinner.
What do customers say about Le Comptoir de Léa ?
The reviews on Tripadvisor and Google are overwhelmingly positive. Diners often praise the attentive service, the nostalgic decor, and the high quality of traditional dishes. Many reviews note that the salad, quenelles, and desserts like île flottante with pralines are standouts. If you love authentic Lyonnaise cuisine, this restaurant is a favorite.
What kind of wine does the restaurant offer ?
Le Comptoir de Léa offers an excellent selection of wines from the Rhône Valley and Beaujolais regions. These local bottles pair wonderfully with the rich flavors of traditional Lyonnaise dishes. Don’t hesitate to ask the staff for advice on the best pairing for your meal.
Does Le Comptoir de Léa have any certifications or awards ?
Yes! The restaurant is certified by the “Les Bouchons Lyonnais” association, which guarantees its commitment to authentic cuisine and the spirit of the bouchon lyonnais.
Why should you visit Le Comptoir de Léa ?
Because it offers everything you want from a true bouchon: a warm welcome, hearty dishes, a deep connection to Lyon’s cuisine, and a slice of history on every plate. Whether for lunch or dinner, your table at Le Comptoir de Léa awaits.
Is Le Comptoir de Léa open on Saturdays ?
Yes, the restaurant is open on Saturdays for both lunch and dinner. It’s a popular day, so we recommend you make your reservation in advance, especially if you’re planning to dine in the evening.
What makes the cuisine at Le Comptoir de Léa stand out ?
What sets it apart is the attention to seasonality (saison), the balance between richness and refinement, and the way each dish reflects the roots of traditional French cuisine. You’ll find everything from classic œuf en meurette to hearty tête de veau, all prepared with great care.
Can I visit Le Comptoir de Léa for lunch ?
Absolutely. The restaurant offers a complete lunch (déjeuner) experience from Tuesday to Saturday. It’s the perfect way to enjoy authentic lyonnaise cuisine in a more relaxed atmosphere during the day.
How long has Le Comptoir de Léa been serving Lyonnaise cuisine ?
The story goes back many years, as the bouchon was inspired by the legacy of Mère Léa. Over the decades, this place has become a reference for traditional dishes, thanks to its dedicated team and enduring passion.
Is Le Comptoir de Léa suitable for English-speaking visitors ?
Yes, the staff can assist you in English, and the menu is accessible even if you’re not fluent in French. It’s an ideal spot for travelers looking to discover French gastronomy without a language barrier.
Does Le Comptoir de Léa serve any desserts with pink pralines ?
Yes, one of their standout desserts is the île flottante aux pralines roses, a visually stunning and delicious treat that reflects the unique flavors of Lyon.
What is the connection between Le Comptoir de Léa and Christian Têtedoie ?
Christian Têtedoie, a renowned French chef, provides the culinary direction of the establishment. Under his guidance, the kitchen blends tradition with finesse, offering some of the meilleur examples of Lyonnaise cooking in the city.
Where exactly is Le Comptoir de Léa located in relation to Lyon landmarks ?
The restaurant is situated near Place Bellecour, just a short walk from Vieux Lyon and Quai des Célestins. It’s also close to several cultural sites like the Théâtre des Célestins and even Cathédrale Saint-Jean. A perfect stop during a city stroll.
Does Tripadvisor perform checks on reviews for Le Comptoir de Léa ?
Yes, Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews to ensure authenticity. You can rely on opinions from other guests who have shared their real experiences. Look for consistent mentions of quality, service, and ambiance.
Is there a fixed-price menu at Le Comptoir de Léa ?
Yes, the restaurant offers a traditional fixed-price formula, which includes multiple courses at a fair price. It’s ideal for those who want to sample several specialties without overspending.
Can I enjoy local wines with my meal ?
Certainly. Le Comptoir de Léa offers excellent bottles from the Rhône Valley and Beaujolais, including Bordeaux options. You can also finish your meal with a coffee or a digestif, like a frozen Chartreuse parfait.
0 Comments