Concocté par Valentin
When it came to Lyon-style feasting and unapologetic indulgence, the Compagnie du Rognon had so far triumphed over every plate placed before it.
That was before discovering Les Culottes Longues de Lyon, on rue Sala, where the limits of Lyonnais bombance are gloriously stretched.
Here’s what we thought.
David Cano, captain of the sheep
With his jovial demeanor and hearty banter, Cano is the very image of a Lyonnais bouchon chef. When he talks about his ingredients, he radiates a passion and generosity that echoes in every plate that leaves the kitchen.
Less bling-bling, more clink-clink
The décor sets the tone: cozy, quirky, and full of character. Vintage flea-market finds are scattered throughout the space — including the eponymous culottes longues (long underwear), proudly framed on the wall. A large, vintage map of Lyon hangs above the wood paneling like a mural. At the center of the room, a spiral staircase feels like it was lifted from a family living room. And a stone arch marks a loose boundary between the dining room and the kitchen — so open you can compliment the chef without even raising your voice, as he continues cooking behind the counter.
From the Start, Generous Plates
There are no set menus at Les Culottes Longues. David Cano has an instinctive, almost visceral relationship with cooking. The menu is dictated only by what he feels like making that day — a mix of Lyonnais classics and more inventive creations, based on whatever treasures he’s unearthed from his suppliers.
Among the starters: Lyon’s famous saucisson brioché ; A pâté en croûte (so large it seems to have been fed itself with pâté).
But things get surprising fast: A sea urchin scramble, or a snail risotto with wild garlic cream.
Time to Loosen Your Belt
If David Cano loves good food, he also loves making it accessible.
His signature dish proves it — pairing the delicacy of the ris de veau (a high-end cut) with the bold flavor of veal kidneys (decidedly more affordable).
Or take his land-and-sea duet: pork and lobster — a plate that ends the class struggle in one generous, unified sauce. The menu also includes the wonderfully unexpected, like the butcher cut of suckling pig. But fear not: the traditional Lyonnais dishes still hold court — cuts of butcher’s meat with Saint-Marcellin or morel sauce, and of course, the pike quenelle.
Don’t desert, mains are over !
Once again, the chef follows his whims and pleasures to compose the day’s desserts.
From our table, we spot an apple tart and a proper Lyon-style praline tart — unless we fall for something made-to-order by the chef, like his hazelnut pain perdu.
As the meal comes to a close, the Compagnie du Rognon rises from the table — and though they may be long, our culottes definitely feel a little tight after such a feast.
About Les Culottes Longues in Lyon
What kind of restaurant is Les Culottes Longues ?
Les Culottes Longues is a traditional bouchon lyonnais located at 42 rue Sala, 69002 Lyon, in the heart of the Ainay district near Place Bellecour. Known for its warm atmosphere and generous cuisine, this restaurant is the perfect blend of Lyonnais culinary tradition and creative flair. Chef David Cano carries on the spirit of the bouchon: hearty plates, convivial ambiance, and a passion for local terroir.
What is on the menu at Les Culottes Longues?
There’s no fixed menu here — and that’s part of the charm. Chef Cano builds each day’s offerings around what’s fresh and inspiring. Expect Lyonnais specialités like pâté en croûte, saucisson brioché, and the famous quenelle de brochet, alongside more surprising dishes such as risotto with snails and wild garlic, or a bold pork and lobster duet. The cuisine is unmistakably lyonnaise, rooted in tradition yet open to invention.
How much does a meal cost at Les Culottes Longues ?
Prices at Les Culottes Longues reflect the quality and generosity of the cuisine. Expect to pay around 28€ to 45€, depending on your appetite and the day’s selection. For many, it’s among the best value restaurants in Lyon, especially considering the portion sizes and the finesse of ingredients like ris de veau and veal kidneys.
How do I make a reservation at Les Culottes Longues ?
Reservations are highly recommended, especially for lunch or weekend dinner. You can reserve by calling the restaurant directly at their phone number, which can be found on their official website or on Tripadvisor. Given its reputation and loyal base of habituals, tables go fast — so don’t wait too long !
Where is Les Culottes Longues located ?
The address of Les Culottes Longues is: 42 rue Sala, 69002 Lyon, France.
This bouchon is nestled in the Ainay neighborhood, just a short stroll from Place Bellecour and the Rhône river. Its central location makes it easy to reach whether you’re a local or visiting Lyon for the first time.
What are the reviews for Les Culottes Longues ?
Les Culottes Longues has built a solid reputation both in Lyon and online. Many reviews on platforms like Tripadvisor praise the authenticity of the cuisine, the warm welcome, and the chef’s personality. Diners often mention the generous portions and the playful touches in both the menu and the décor. Be sure to check out the photos online to get a taste of what awaits.
What traditional dishes should I try at Les Culottes Longues ?
This bouchon is a celebration of traditional Lyonnaise cuisine. Highlights include:
- Ris de veau and rognon de veau in creamy sauces
- Heroic proportions of Pâté en croûte
- Quenelle de brochet with rich Nantua sauce
- A surprising take on mâchon with seasonal ingredients
These specialités offer a deep dive into Lyon’s culinary soul, served with a side of banter from the chef himself.
Why is Les Culottes Longues considered one of the best bouchons in Lyon ?
Simply put: it’s the real deal. From the moment you step into the quirky, wood-paneled establishment, you feel the heart and soul of a true bouchon. Chef David Cano, a former assistant to founder François Paillet, brings both technical skill and genuine affection for Lyon’s food traditions. His daily menu, love of terroir, and unapologetically rich cuisine make this a must-visit for anyone looking to eat like a Lyonnais.
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