Le Mercière in Lyon, at the mercy of indulgence
Concocté par Valentin
Le Mercière, the Lyonnais bouchon, single-handedly restores the gastronomic reputation of its namesake street. An institution that’s managed to charm tourists while building a loyal crowd of regulars. Its success lies in a one-of-a-kind setting and a menu executed with precision.
For all audiences
Le Mercière cultivates a singular in‑between. For tourists, it’s the perfect Lyonnais postcard: a picturesque spot where you can enjoy local, affordable cuisine. For the die-hard lovers of Lyonnais gastronomy, it’s a haven of fine dishes: a safe bet, combining high standards with authenticity. To welcome everyone, Le Mercière serves up to 350 covers, seven days a week.Giving César his due…
If this house has managed to preserve its authenticity so well, it’s largely thanks to its owner. A true Beaujolais native, Jean-Louis Manoa owned Le Mercière from 1978 before passing the torch in 2024 to his son-in-law, César Ponsonnet. Former dining room director at the triple Michelin-starred Le Bernardin in New York, César brings both rigor and large-scale service expertise to the table. The kitchen isn’t left behind either: it’s led by Sébastien Plessis, an alumnus of the legendary Tour d’Argent. (Photo credit: Le Mercière).
Sharing plates, sharing laughs
With such a team in charge, Le Mercière strikes the perfect balance between a relaxed vibe and precision service. The close-packed tables quickly had us chatting with our neighbors — and eventually sampling from each other’s plates. Despite the lively bustle and limited space, the team manages it all brilliantly, even taking time to exchange jokes and stories with diners. Service here comes with both a firm hand and a warm heart.A traboule inside a bouchon
This bouchon has two dining rooms, separated by a cleverly integrated traboule — one of those secret Lyonnais passageways. The unique layout always catches the eye of curious passersby on Rue Mercière. Inside, the postcard image continues: wooden paneling and cozy benches fill a décor halfway between rococo chic and the cheerful clutter typical of Lyonnais bouchons. A narrow spiral staircase offers a front-row seat to the servers’ nonstop ballet, amplifying the restaurant’s lively energy.
The first straw
Le Mercière offers a €33 menu featuring about fifteen great Lyonnais classics, alongside a seasonal menu showcasing less conventional, more personal creations. Among the timeless starters, the Compagnie du Rognon didn’t skip the Morgon-style œufs en meurette or the traditional salade lyonnaise. For the more original choices, we loved the beet-cured salmon gravlax and the exquisite salad of pan-seared lamb sweetbreads with crisp green beans.
A canaille cult
Then came the mains: a black pudding feuilleté paired with cider-caramelized apples; an Angus hanger steak with shallot sauce, bone marrow, and a macaroni gratin; and a supreme of free-range chicken with vin jaune sauce and truffled purée. A procession of devilishly tempting plates, like invocations to a true culte canaille. You can even succumb to the house’s signature dish: penne with truffle and foie gras, an emblematic recipe inherited from Jean-Louis Manoa himself.
Praline or pralin?
After a classic cervelle de canut and a perfectly ripe Saint-Marcellin, we regained our senses with a round of desserts. Traditional, yes, but perfectly executed: silky crème brûlée, a rich baba au vieux rhum, and œufs à la neige dressed with pralines and custard. But the real surprise — and the highlight — was a chestnut moelleux served with its custard infused with pralin. An unexpected pairing, and yet somehow perfectly obvious.
About Le Mercière, a renowned Bouchon Lyonnais in the Heart of Lyon
Where is Le Mercière located?
Le Mercière sits at 56 rue Mercière, 69002 Lyon, in the bustling Cordeliers district, right on the Presqu’île. This iconic pedestrian street is ideal for a stroll before or after your meal, a slice of classic Lyonnais charm.
What are the opening hours of Le Mercière?
The restaurant is open daily, serving lunch from 12:00 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner from 6:45 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., including Sundays. For holiday hours or any special updates, it’s best to check their official website.
What kind of dishes are on the menu?
Le Mercière’s menu showcases the best of traditional Lyonnaise cuisine: saucisson brioché, quenelle de brochet, andouillette, and more. All crafted with care and accompanied by Rhône Valley wines selected to match each dish.
How do I book a table at Le Mercière?
Reservations can be made online through their website or by phone. Booking ahead is strongly recommended, especially on weekends, as this bouchon is a popular destination for locals and visitors alike.
What do reviews say about Le Mercière?
Guests frequently praise the attentive service, the authentic ambiance, and the balance between quality and price. The lively, welcoming atmosphere and consistent execution have earned Le Mercière a loyal following and excellent ratings across dining platforms.
What’s the average price of a meal?
The set menu at €33 is a popular and affordable choice. À la carte options typically range from €16 to €36, offering flexibility for a casual lunch or a more indulgent dinner, always with generous portions and high-quality ingredients.
What is the atmosphere like?
Le Mercière blends the charm of old Lyon with the energy of a busy bouchon. Expect exposed beams, a warm, cozy dining room, and friendly service. It’s perfect for a meal with family, friends, or even new acquaintances met at neighboring tables.
Which Lyonnaise specialties shouldn’t be missed?
The kitchen honors regional classics such as quenelle, saucisson brioché, andouillette, and cervelle de canut. All dishes are made in-house, using fresh ingredients, for a meal that’s both comforting and deeply rooted in local tradition.
Does Le Mercière have a terrace?
Yes, the restaurant features a lovely terrace right on Rue Mercière, ideal for enjoying your meal outdoors in a lively, pedestrian setting, especially in spring and summer.
Is the restaurant accessible and pet-friendly?
Le Mercière is located in a pedestrian zone that’s easily reached by foot or public transport, with parking available nearby. Pets are welcome, just mention it when booking to ensure a comfortable spot.
Why choose Le Mercière?
Because it’s a Lyonnais institution. Le Mercière combines everything you want from a bouchon: classic dishes, an inviting atmosphere, professional yet warm service, and that unmistakable feeling of sitting down at a table where tradition still lives on.
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