Whoever said all the best bouchons in Lyon are on the Presqu’île? Today, the Compagnie du Rognon sets its little trotters down in the 9th arrondissement to discover Les 4G — an establishment that, in just a few years, has become an unmissable ambassador of Lyon’s gastronomy and its mischievous bouchon spirit.

Gnolus, Grands Gognands & other Gones

In 2024, Les 4G shot to fame by winning the Florent Dessus Prize for Best Bouchon, awarded annually by the Association for the Protection of Authentic Lyonnais Bouchons. And deservedly so: the restaurant perfectly blends an authentic bouchon soul — rooted in Lyon’s traditional dishes and convivial, slightly roguish spirit.

The name itself is a cheeky nod: Gnolus, Grands Gognands, and other Gones — old local slang for “foodies, big eaters, and playful Lyonnais kids at heart.” In short, a den for good living and good eaters in the heart of the Capital of Gaul.

No Minced Words, No Minced Portions

Behind Les 4G is Philippe, grandson of a grocer, who grew up with a love of good things done right. No wonder the team is up and running by 7 a.m., feeding early birds with the house’s now-famous mâchons — Lyon’s traditional morning feasts for hungry workers.

In the dining room, Chloé leads the brigade with infectious energy. The whole team is a lively bunch, quick with a joke, making sure everything runs like butter while keeping the mood light and fun. At Les 4G, the cream is full-fat, the kidneys are served whole, and above all, the people are the real deal.

4G, 3 Rooms

The promise of Les 4G is fulfilled the moment you step inside: a generous bar lined with magnums of spirits, topped by a miniature Guignol puppet theater stretching across its length. The restaurant is split into three cozy rooms, each as packed with decoration as the plates are with food.

Blackboards, vintage posters, retro ads, collections of tiny liqueur bottles, napkin drawers, and all sorts of old bric-à-brac make up this colorful patchwork, a hallmark of traditional bouchons.

Straight to the Bone Marrow

The menu at Les 4G is built around two pillars: classic Lyonnais specialties on one side, and French bistro staples on the other.

We kicked off our feast by sharing bowls of grattons, a rich duck terrine, indulgent roasted marrow bones, and slices of house-made pâté en croûte — the restaurant’s rightfully proud signature.

Going Straight for the Guts

On the mains side, Les 4G gives pride of place to tripe. Here, a tablier de sapeur — delicious golden, crispy slab. There, tripes à la lyonnaise — irresistible sautéed strips. And as the essential common thread, some tasty homemade fries.

To keep this “good tripe” going, we try the quenelle with wild garlic: a welcome eccentricity that perks up this great classic of Lyonnais gastronomy. Let us note, by the way, that it’s with their daily specials that Les 4G ventures into more creative propositions, such as gigot en croûte or “bouillabresse,” swapping fish for Bresse chicken.

Babas & Little Bouchons

As the meal neared its end, we weren’t sure whether to stumble out or be carried out. Summoning the last of our strength, we started with a cervelle de canut — a creamy, tangy cheese spread as refreshing as it was indulgent.

Then came the babas au rhum, lush and boozy, followed by a delightful surprise: “petits bouchons”, tiny rum-soaked sponge cakes preserved in glass jars, proudly displayed on the bar.

And, because no true bouchon experience ends without a proper send-off, the team invited us up to the counter for a final digestif, sealing the deal on an unforgettable feast.

About Les 4G, an authentic Bouchon Lyonnais in Vaise